Berlin is a strange city, with surprising range. It can be hedonistic, but not like that of Vegas or Los Angeles which feel performative. Rather, Berlin is quite honest - there’s no veneer to crack, what you see is what you get. It acknowledges its history in this same way. It can be beautiful, in spots. But mostly it’s concrete, and imposing, and brusque. And it is effortlessly cool, in a way that I imagine New York once was. Less navel-gazing, more experimental. You don’t feel cool enough to be there, but you also know no one is giving you a second thought, which is a special kind of freedom.

If you go to Berlin, there are two versions you might choose to experience. The first is through the lens of the city that truly shaped the course of the 21st century. It is astonishing to realize how much history happened in this place. The second, is the Berlin of the night (and early morning) - where music, sexuality, artistry, and self-expression collide (it’s truly not just partying, clubbing is an art form in this city). Try to get a taste of both, they are equally impactful, unique experiences. If you are interested, here are some of my favourites from my week in this brusque, yet somehow, beautiful city.

Activities:

A free walking tour with Sandeman is good to get the highlights
For a truly unique Berlin experience, you must get a bike or scooter and do a loop around Tempelhofer Feld. This former airport, now a vast public park, is one of my absolute favourite spots in the city. In my experience, it felt like a bizarre, liminal space that still looks like a plane might land at any moment, yet all around, people barbecue, live in tiny homes, and watch the sunsets with a drink in hand.
You can book a slot at Badeschiff pool and swim “in” the Spree
Mauerpark has a great Sunday market. It’s a vibrant community event, filled with street performers, flea market treasures like old vintage cameras, and the famous open-air karaoke.
Topography of Terror and the Jewish Museum weren’t just "must-sees" but profound, essential experiences. Please do not go to Berlin for the first time without considering at least a day or two for activities like this, which require a bit more quiet contemplation.
Konig Gallery often has interesting shows on, for the contemporary art lovers

Bars:

Berlin truly comes alive as the day softens into evening. And if there’s one place that captures the magic of Berlin at dusk, it’s Klunkerkranich. Sat atop the roof of a parking lot, it is a popular spot for a sunset drink - overlooking the whole of the city with large scale art installations and community gardens. It was started by a former teacher and part of the premise is to teach people about sustainable living.
Cassiopeia: a skatepark, rock climbing wall, and relaxed garden space makes for a really relaxed, multi-functional afternoon beer destination.
For a more serene, almost fairytale-like experience, Cafe am Neuen See is a little slice of heaven. Tucked away in Berlin’s largest urban park, Tiergarten, it is a lovely (family-friendly) biergarten, sitting right overtop a magical little pond. It was one of my favourite spots for dinner and drinks. The schnitzel and radlers are great.
Geist im Glas: This cocktail bar is really cozy. Although we were there in the summer, I think it would be the perfect fall / winter local drinking hole.
Clärchens Ballroom: Clärchens Ballhaus is one of the last remaining ball houses from the 20th century and is considered an institution of Berlin (plus it has a great patio). Everyone from the 80 year old neighbour to scenesters to Brad Pitt comes through Clärchens.

Clubs:

I wouldn’t say I’m the expert on this so I’ll share the link I used to figure out the clubs to head to.

Sisyphos: for the music festival lover
KaterBlau: for the bohemian clubber
Watergate: for the sound system and sunrises
Berghain: for the elitist worshipper
Tresor: for the techno history
Zur Klappe: for a more intimate experience

Brunches:

Hallesches Haus: Germanic food is not exactly known for being colourful or fresh, so when I stumbled on this cute little spot with vegetable-heavy brunch plates, I was sold. They have a beautiful patio, a nice space inside where people were working, and an incredible home-goods store (I wanted to buy everything).
Belle Alliance: classic brunch options, great coffee, lovely service, and a good spot for large groups (they always try to make room for you)!
Das Gretel: Just down the street from Belle Alliance so a good option if one or the other is too busy. Fantastic eggs Benny and a really cute, French interior.
Love Deluxe: one of the most unique brunch menus I’ve seen! As a huge proponent of dinner for breakfast, I found it nice to see the breakfast classics get mixed up a bit.
La Maison: Situated right on near a canal, this spot is quite popular with the locals. The pastries are insane and you can enjoy them all day long, including with a lovely beverage in the afternoon on the patio.
Zeit Fur Brot: I didn’t get a chance to go but this bakery chain came highly recommended.
44 Brekkie: I also didn’t get a chance to go here but these breakfast sandwiches looked beyond fluffy and delicious. Silo Coffee, right next door is supposed to be great as well.

Lunches:

Original Chicken Gemuse Kebab (my favourite kebab spot)
Mustafa’s Gemuse Kebab (the famous spot)
Burgermeister is a classic

Dinners:

Truthfully, my mealtimes were all over the place while in Berlin and dinner didn’t happen often. But when it did, these were the hits.

Felix Austria: get the schnitzel, sliced cucumber salad, side of potatoes, and a sparkling apple soda. Best comfort meal ever.
Kimchi Princess: This spot was also great for bigger groups and had all the Korean B’s - bimimbap, bulgogi and BBQ.
Chungking Noodles: a small menu of affordable, certifiable hits.
Kitten Deli: gorgeous, fresh Middle Eastern classics like sabich and hummus.
Mama Shabz: really welcoming, delicious Pakistani restaurant in Kreuzberg
Lon Men’s Noodle House: I could die happy if I was eating these Taiwanese wontons and soup while it happened.
Bar Normal: a pretty small menu but that’s when you know everything is good :-)